See Part I here
We were a little overwhelmed after the museum and decided to walk that feeling off. The Setouchi exhibits are littered around the island (the bus conveniently stops at all of them, and there are helpful direction signs everywhere) so we walked in the general direction of exhibits 23-26. Along the way, we ate a packet of the “Naoshima のり” seaweed I inappropriately appropriated from our breakfast buffet spread. The weather was lovely for even uphill walking and the road was mostly quiet, save for a stray vehicle here and there and an old couple walking in the direction of the museum.
Naoshima has a relatively sparse population, but with the ferry-loads of tourists the island gets, it feels livelier and well, pretty darn cosmopolitan for a small offshore island. Teshima, on the other hand, feels exactly like the 1000-population island that it is. Most of the people we passed (and there weren’t that many, in fact) were tourists like us, unfamiliar with the hilly contours of the place and the bus schedule.
We found Storm House, an on-site installation in an old Japanese house by Janet Cardiff and George Bures Miller. We paid the admission fee, took off our shoes and the guide led us into the darkened room where other visitors were quietly sitting. All of a sudden, we were transported from a fine day to heavy rain and lightning flashes. Rain streaked the windows and the winds howled. Lights flickered but never came on.
(We liked it; my only humble suggestion would be to have a door to enclose the room because the light from the entrance was a distracting reminder that it was all, well, fake.)
Still, it was pretty disconcerting to come out of the house and see clear blue skies. We traipsed down to Shima Kitchen which is part artwork and part restaurant, but the queue was long and most of the food had sold out. In the end, we took the bus back to the pier where we got lunch at an old-fashioned shokudo. Lunch was yakisoba and ramen, with a side of an old Japanese drama starring the (then) very young Arashi boys on tv. A diner went off without her Setouchi passport, and the old lady had to run out and around, make phone calls and call the onii-san security personnel (who seemed to be in his late twenties) to help hold on to the pass. He probably passed it on to someone else, because later we saw the diner run back into the restaurant, then to onii-san, then to the ticketing area, then out again, then back again to retrieve her pass from the information counter.
We had plans to head back to Naoshima early but decided that we would take a later ferry and explore the island. We headed to the very stylish-looking Tobias Rehberger house which was also acting as a café (if you buy a drink, the admission fee is waived).
With another hour to go before the next ferry, we walked around surprising old ladies around corners, peering into dusty shops and taking photos of those lovely spring flowers. There was a kiosk/café selling hotdogs in the middle of nowhere, and though we really should had, we didn’t stop for another snack.
We rode the ferry back to Naoshima with a ferry-load of napping passengers. (We really like you, Teshima.)